NEC makes awesome monitors. Some of the best ones I've used at Motorola were from NEC. Over the years the company has changed; new owners I believe. I've not done a lot of research but I am happy with what I have given the price. This old 19" LCD panel also has a USB hub built into it. That was the first thing to go. One day the ports simply stopped working and I never looked into it to find out why. Since I didn't need the extra ports for anything but convenience sake I simply moved the connections directly to the computer ports and have been operating that way ever since.
The next thing to go was the power switch. This is a push switch on a module with three other switches for adjusting color. Apparently, and I didn't find this out until after the switch broke, they recommend not shutting off the monitor unless you are servicing it. It goes into an idle state which I presume is why it powers up so quickly. Shutting it off defeats the purpose of the idle circuitry and stresses the mechanical abilities of the stitch. It broke in the on position, which is fortunate. I've never tried to turn it off again. The switch, by the way, is not sold separately. It's all part of the assembly of all the switches which apparently plug into the motherboard. I've looked far and wide but can't find any replacement switch modules. A new monitor of similar quality but with a wide screen is about $170. I'm thinking seriously about that.
Underground Farming
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Re: Underground Farming
I bought two matching LG monitors back when I bought the two computers in IMicro cabinets. I think this was way back around 2009 or before. They have worked perfectly ever since. That is why I bought LG appliances which were all a disaster from day one. I get riled just thinking about that waste of money and all the problems. I don't remember for sure, but I think I paid around 129 or 149 dollars each for them, and with a 20% off coupon we had, plus got them on the one tax free day we have here too. So they were a great deal at the time.
Hey, I have a question. I've been using Logitech Track Man Wheel, thumball meeces for many years now. They all worked great, but the switches start double clicking when they are not supposed to. I bought them six at a time and am now on my last one.
I bought a new thumball mouse, wired, USB, from a German manufacturer and it did not work at all, nothing on it worked.
I tried rebooting the computer to see if that might make it pick up the new mouse. I did not. I tried it on three other computers, and nada. So I figured I got a bad one. I'm shipping it back.
I ordered another new one, that won't be here for a few days yet from yet another company.
Then I got to thinking, is it possible the mouse standards have changed, so they won't work on PS2 computers, even though we don't use the PS2 connector we plug right into the USB ports?
I figured you would know if the mouse standards have changed so that they only work on Windows computer now and nothing else. Although the mouse did not work on my Windows XP box either, so I figure it was a bad one.
I just hope the new one I ordered works, it is wired, USB, not wireless.
I also decided to go a little higher priced and get a laser instead of an optical too. They are supposed to be more accurate, but I've never had trouble with accuracy on my Logitech meeces.
Hey, I have a question. I've been using Logitech Track Man Wheel, thumball meeces for many years now. They all worked great, but the switches start double clicking when they are not supposed to. I bought them six at a time and am now on my last one.
I bought a new thumball mouse, wired, USB, from a German manufacturer and it did not work at all, nothing on it worked.
I tried rebooting the computer to see if that might make it pick up the new mouse. I did not. I tried it on three other computers, and nada. So I figured I got a bad one. I'm shipping it back.
I ordered another new one, that won't be here for a few days yet from yet another company.
Then I got to thinking, is it possible the mouse standards have changed, so they won't work on PS2 computers, even though we don't use the PS2 connector we plug right into the USB ports?
I figured you would know if the mouse standards have changed so that they only work on Windows computer now and nothing else. Although the mouse did not work on my Windows XP box either, so I figure it was a bad one.
I just hope the new one I ordered works, it is wired, USB, not wireless.
I also decided to go a little higher priced and get a laser instead of an optical too. They are supposed to be more accurate, but I've never had trouble with accuracy on my Logitech meeces.
Re: Underground Farming
You had trouble with LG appliances, and I have had nothing but trouble with GE appliances. It must be something to do with manufacturers who only have two letters for their name. 
The short answer to your question is that I am unaware of any changes in mouse specifications that would restrict their use to Windows only.
Also, judging by the description of your troubleshooting attempts, I'd concur with your conclusion. The device, not the port or computer, is defective.
PS2 does not work the same way as USB, thus different device drivers are required. There is almost always some blurb about how what you are looking at is compatible with PS2 standards, but that does not mean it works as did the old PS2 ports. I've purchased more than a few "gaming" mouses with this claim and never had any trouble. But then, I'm not a purist. Those who are say PS2, the real thing, has less latency than USB clones. Neither you or I are doing anything so demanding that a few milliseconds would make a difference. Thus a PS2 compatible device would suit both our needs well enough.
There could be a problem with USB 2 vs USB 3. (I won't get into USB 3C) If you have a USB 3 device and plug it into a USB 2 port, it will still work, but may not work as well. I've not run across a device that stops working with the mismatch, but Windows will often flag it and warn me that things go better with USB 3. For me that is a problem at times because Windows 7 was invented before USB 3. I do have the drivers installed to fix that, but it has to be done manually if you want to upgrade.
I like the gaming mouses, laser version, because they are programmable. The dpi can be adjusted to suit your needs and laser devices would seem better suited for that kind of precision. The mouse I am currently using has a switch that I can press to flip the resolution of the mouse tracking. Sometimes I need a slow mouse and other times I need a fast one. This switch makes it easy to change without going into the settings and changing profiles.
I used a track ball for a while back around Windows Visa days. I gave up on it for reasons unknown to me today. LOL
The short answer to your question is that I am unaware of any changes in mouse specifications that would restrict their use to Windows only.
Also, judging by the description of your troubleshooting attempts, I'd concur with your conclusion. The device, not the port or computer, is defective.
PS2 does not work the same way as USB, thus different device drivers are required. There is almost always some blurb about how what you are looking at is compatible with PS2 standards, but that does not mean it works as did the old PS2 ports. I've purchased more than a few "gaming" mouses with this claim and never had any trouble. But then, I'm not a purist. Those who are say PS2, the real thing, has less latency than USB clones. Neither you or I are doing anything so demanding that a few milliseconds would make a difference. Thus a PS2 compatible device would suit both our needs well enough.
There could be a problem with USB 2 vs USB 3. (I won't get into USB 3C) If you have a USB 3 device and plug it into a USB 2 port, it will still work, but may not work as well. I've not run across a device that stops working with the mismatch, but Windows will often flag it and warn me that things go better with USB 3. For me that is a problem at times because Windows 7 was invented before USB 3. I do have the drivers installed to fix that, but it has to be done manually if you want to upgrade.
I like the gaming mouses, laser version, because they are programmable. The dpi can be adjusted to suit your needs and laser devices would seem better suited for that kind of precision. The mouse I am currently using has a switch that I can press to flip the resolution of the mouse tracking. Sometimes I need a slow mouse and other times I need a fast one. This switch makes it easy to change without going into the settings and changing profiles.
I used a track ball for a while back around Windows Visa days. I gave up on it for reasons unknown to me today. LOL
Re: Underground Farming
I always thought you could use a PS2 mouse plug with a PS2 to USB on a USB port, so did the exact opposite, used USB meeces with an adapter to use the PS2 ports.
That being said, the new mouse I bought was USB and plugged into a USB port. Actually tried in different USB ports, even though my old mouse worked just fine in the USB port.
When it didn't work I tried it on two other computers and nada, flat out did not work.
I've been using the thumball meeces every since they came out.
I started out with Logitech brand. Bought a Microsoft brand once, and it was too big for my hand. I still used it until it quite working, then went back to the Logitech brand and when I heard it was going to be discontinued, I bought a box of six of them. Every single one after much usage, the left click button would eventually start double clicking, and it is not easy to replace the switch, they are not stock Cherry Switches, and Omron would not fit either.
Most of the advertisements for the meeces say Windows 7, 8, 10, Mac, and Google Chrome. None of them say Linux.
Even so, I've never hit a mouse that didn't work on my Linux boxes. Albeit, a fancy 9 button mouse I bought one time would not use the fancy buttons, but it still worked like a normal mouse. It only came with a Windows XP driver.
I've also tried a few Marble Meeces, and still like the thumball types better.
The only thing I did not like about the Logitech was the right click button was too touchy on all of them.
So, I slip a piece of high density foam under the front of the plastic button and that fixed it, hi hi.
Their mouse wheel does pick up a lot of lint, which requires disassembly and a careful cleaning.
But the thumball pops right out for easy cleaning.
FWIW: When I'm doing very tight tolerance work, I use both hands. My left hand controls the thumball instead of my thumb. But for everything else I use it only with my right hand.
That being said, the new mouse I bought was USB and plugged into a USB port. Actually tried in different USB ports, even though my old mouse worked just fine in the USB port.
When it didn't work I tried it on two other computers and nada, flat out did not work.
I've been using the thumball meeces every since they came out.
I started out with Logitech brand. Bought a Microsoft brand once, and it was too big for my hand. I still used it until it quite working, then went back to the Logitech brand and when I heard it was going to be discontinued, I bought a box of six of them. Every single one after much usage, the left click button would eventually start double clicking, and it is not easy to replace the switch, they are not stock Cherry Switches, and Omron would not fit either.
Most of the advertisements for the meeces say Windows 7, 8, 10, Mac, and Google Chrome. None of them say Linux.
Even so, I've never hit a mouse that didn't work on my Linux boxes. Albeit, a fancy 9 button mouse I bought one time would not use the fancy buttons, but it still worked like a normal mouse. It only came with a Windows XP driver.
I've also tried a few Marble Meeces, and still like the thumball types better.
The only thing I did not like about the Logitech was the right click button was too touchy on all of them.
So, I slip a piece of high density foam under the front of the plastic button and that fixed it, hi hi.
Their mouse wheel does pick up a lot of lint, which requires disassembly and a careful cleaning.
But the thumball pops right out for easy cleaning.
FWIW: When I'm doing very tight tolerance work, I use both hands. My left hand controls the thumball instead of my thumb. But for everything else I use it only with my right hand.