You bring back memories I forgot that I had. LOL Back in the very early days of my marriage I was quite the fisherman. Northern Illinois and southern Wisconsin were full of small lakes that have not been turned into resorts or condo villages yet. The lake closest to my house was only about an hour's drive. The lake was pretty well fished out because it was so popular, but it was a great place to take my 10 year old cousin on his first fishing trip. The kid loved the idea when I first mentioned it to him and it was arranged for him to stay over at our apartment for a couple days so that we could drive out to the lake at some ridiculously early hour of the day. They didn't tell me this kid was prone to car sickness. About half way to the lake we had to pull over so that he could dump his breakfast at the roadside. After some due consideration and his encouragement, we continued on to the lake for his first fishing expedition.
The boat rental was out of a bar. That's how most of those lakes were if they were accessible by the public. The bar is where the fishermen hung out and talked about their fish stories and the attached pier was full of boats for rent. We rented a row boat that couldn't have been more than a ten footer. It had a place for a gasoline motor, but we didn't have a motor to mount there. Thus we, as in I, had to use the oars to get to where we wanted to go on the water. After about 15 or 20 minutes of rowing we arrived at the designated spot. Sad to say, the fish were not biting that day. The carp, however, were very active feeding which encouraged us to stay longer than we should have. We didn't catch anything at all and decided to move on to another spot closer to the rental place. I pulled up anchor and started to row, but then one of the oar locks broke. The pieces fell into the water, albeit I did have both oars in my possession. Only one of them was usable and you know what happens when you try to row using only one oar. Yep, you go in circles. Quite small circles at that.
Well, here we were in the middle of this lake with only one oar that was usable. There wasn't much wind as I recall and I don't think we were drifting in the right direction anyway. So, we sat there for quite a while wondering what to do. The kid didn't panic at all. In fact he thought is was q lot of fun. Finally, some lone fisherman in a motorized row boat was passing by in the distance. We waved and yelled frantically, and, of course, being the friendly fisherman that he was he waved back and looked like he was going to leave us behind. I guess he had second thoughts when we didn't stop waving. He came by and saved our day by towing us back to the bar. We got a second boat but didn't go far from shore that time. If we had to we could swim to shore was my thinking. Well, we came home empty handed and disappointed.
It turns out that my young cousin was super impressed with the whole concept of fishing. He became quite the fisherman and visited many lakes and rivers over the years. He always tells the story of our first adventure and how it inspired him to take up fishing. He is now retired and owns a small yacht somewhere in Ohio. I've not talked to him in dozens of years but his sister told me recently of his whereabouts and his STILL avid addiction to fishing.
One More Reason
Re: One More Reason
Wow, that is a wonderful, and also hilarious story. Also one of the reasons we also had paddles in the boat too.
Other fishermen really laughed hard at our little John boat. You would too if you saw it.
My cousin and I fixed it up exclusively for fishing at night, and about 300 feet from where we were allowed to park.
On the back of the boat where all the weight was located, motor, battery, gas tank, and trolling motor, we added a steel rod about 8 inches wider than the boat, and installed two spoked bicycle wheels, one on each side. They held the bottom of the boat only up from the ground about 3 to 4 inches.
On the front of the boat, we cobbed the aluminum frame and shoulder straps from a high-end backpack, and those were mounted to the front and slightly leaning forward, which was good, it kept the boat from eating our heels when we pulled it along. Normally we both lent a shoulder each person using one of the over shoulder hooks and shoulder rest straps. Made a quick trip of getting the boat across the unmown fields to the river.
Behind the center seat on the boat, we mounted to steel brackets that held a 2-1/2 inch diameter PVC pipe we painted black in the upright position, and on top of this pipe was a crows nest, made from a large black bucket.
The bottom of the bucket had two oval holes we cut so the light in the bucket would shine down to where we usually baited our hoods. The light was far enough down inside the bucket so the light did not hit the waters surface, but did light up the bank enough for us to see the bank with ease. The light itself was 12 volts 100 watts, so was quite bright.
Down on the inside of the boat we had those marker lights like you see on the sides of tractor-trailers, we had six of those, and each one drew about 15 watts of power. But we usually kept them off, and also turned off the big 100 watt light while we were anchored, or needed to land a fish, or bait a hook. If we were moving on the water we always had it on.
When we ran the trolling motor on high, the light might dim just a little, but not much. That big ole deep cycle battery we had had both 6 and 12 volt taps on it. This is how we got high and low power on the trolling motor. It was designed that way.
As old as our battery was, it could run that light, including using the trolling motor several times, for over 9 hours. We were usually never fishing for more than 4 hours during the night, at least not out on the water anyhow.
We did often put out limb lines up and down the river, and a trot-line or two, but not long ones like my dad put out.
When dad took us fishing, he was there for one purpose. To come home with a couple coolers filled with catfish, hi hi.
Other fishermen really laughed hard at our little John boat. You would too if you saw it.
My cousin and I fixed it up exclusively for fishing at night, and about 300 feet from where we were allowed to park.
On the back of the boat where all the weight was located, motor, battery, gas tank, and trolling motor, we added a steel rod about 8 inches wider than the boat, and installed two spoked bicycle wheels, one on each side. They held the bottom of the boat only up from the ground about 3 to 4 inches.
On the front of the boat, we cobbed the aluminum frame and shoulder straps from a high-end backpack, and those were mounted to the front and slightly leaning forward, which was good, it kept the boat from eating our heels when we pulled it along. Normally we both lent a shoulder each person using one of the over shoulder hooks and shoulder rest straps. Made a quick trip of getting the boat across the unmown fields to the river.
Behind the center seat on the boat, we mounted to steel brackets that held a 2-1/2 inch diameter PVC pipe we painted black in the upright position, and on top of this pipe was a crows nest, made from a large black bucket.
The bottom of the bucket had two oval holes we cut so the light in the bucket would shine down to where we usually baited our hoods. The light was far enough down inside the bucket so the light did not hit the waters surface, but did light up the bank enough for us to see the bank with ease. The light itself was 12 volts 100 watts, so was quite bright.
Down on the inside of the boat we had those marker lights like you see on the sides of tractor-trailers, we had six of those, and each one drew about 15 watts of power. But we usually kept them off, and also turned off the big 100 watt light while we were anchored, or needed to land a fish, or bait a hook. If we were moving on the water we always had it on.
When we ran the trolling motor on high, the light might dim just a little, but not much. That big ole deep cycle battery we had had both 6 and 12 volt taps on it. This is how we got high and low power on the trolling motor. It was designed that way.
As old as our battery was, it could run that light, including using the trolling motor several times, for over 9 hours. We were usually never fishing for more than 4 hours during the night, at least not out on the water anyhow.
We did often put out limb lines up and down the river, and a trot-line or two, but not long ones like my dad put out.
When dad took us fishing, he was there for one purpose. To come home with a couple coolers filled with catfish, hi hi.
Re: One More Reason
I've fished in the morning at the crack of dawn, but can't say that I ever fished at night. I met people who specialized in such things but my interests never went in that direction. An uncle of mine loved to fish for smelt in Lake Michigan. They would go out on the breakwater with kerosene lamps and a case of beer. I'm pretty sure they also had fishing tackle because they did come back with fish on certain occasions. LOL I'm thinking it was more of a social event than a sport. They didn't use rods and reels as I recall. They had a long line with a bunch of hooks on it that they baited. The line was weighted and tossed out as far as they could throw it. After some amount of time, probably six beers later, they would pull in the line and detach whatever fish happened to be on it. Unfortunately a lot of guys did that very thing and some were not as careful as my uncle. After a couple drownings they prohibited fishing from the breakwater.
Your night fishing John Boat sounds like a typical invention I would expect from you. Launching boats could be a problem if you don't have a trailer and a hitch, but you got around that quite well. My father in law build a one man boat in his basement. I think it had a trolling motor, but maybe a small outboard. I don't recall for certain. He too didn't have a trailer and hitch which is why he built the boat so small. It fit in the trunk of his car well enough to transport it to the local lakes he liked to fish. It was light enough for him to drag around by himself, which he had to do because only one person could fit into that tiny vessel. He was big on fly fishing for pan fish.
Your night fishing John Boat sounds like a typical invention I would expect from you. Launching boats could be a problem if you don't have a trailer and a hitch, but you got around that quite well. My father in law build a one man boat in his basement. I think it had a trolling motor, but maybe a small outboard. I don't recall for certain. He too didn't have a trailer and hitch which is why he built the boat so small. It fit in the trunk of his car well enough to transport it to the local lakes he liked to fish. It was light enough for him to drag around by himself, which he had to do because only one person could fit into that tiny vessel. He was big on fly fishing for pan fish.
Re: One More Reason
Most of the time we just fished from the bank of the river. The boat was needed to run the trot-lines and limb-lines. Or in some cases, just to get to the other side of the river to fish in the shade on days we did fish in the morning, and/or stayed all night. I was always off on Tuesdays, so we went fishing on Monday nights, and on Tuesdays is when I went around to visit factories to see how they made things.
I don't drink, but my cousin did, way too much. I only allowed him one six pack of beer when we went fishing together.
The joke there is, sometimes he might put a hook on his line, hi hi.
We also had a couple of small lakes we used to go to for fishing, not with a boat though. This one lake we could back down a dirt road right up to the waters edge, then walk about 10 feet to the right of where we parked, as there was a nice park bench there to sit on. Due to it's remote location, we never had to worry about anyone being there. The other side of the lake is where everyone congregated, because they had lots of parking, picnic tables, a couple of shelters, and bathrooms.
The park bench on our side was a curved steel frame set in concrete with wooden slat seat and back. It was within walking distance to the rangers cabin, and he often saw us and came down to talk. Turns out the former ranger is who installed the bench, and back then, no one could get to where it was located, and it was inside of a post and rail fence which was the rangers domain anyhow. But this new ranger liked us because we were not troublemakers like so many that sneak over to this side of the lake, hi hi. This lake was home to the rowing club, and was mainly used for small sailboats and the like. No motors allowed on the lake. And one area up near the pavilions was corded off as a swimming area.
I built a little speedboat once out of hardwood framing and marine plywood, treated with marine dope instead of fiberglass.
The entire thing was only 8 feet long and 4 feet wide at the widest point. The front was like the top half of a heart, and the back was just as rectangular box that held me and the motor.
A number of years later I bought as GW Invader (Gray & Woldridge) a racing boat. Glad I bought good insurance on it, because the third time I had it out running up and down the river, I hit a log and it shattered the bottom of the hull and it sunk. I though for sure the insurance company would come and pull it out of the river to salvage the motor, but no, they paid me and told me I should call a salvage company to come get it if they wanted it. I was smart enough to turn off the motor the second I hit the log, so it wouldn't get water in the pistons, and I told the insurance company this, hoping they would have it pulled out of the river. Not one salvage company was interested, said they would spend way too much time trying to locate it, as the Meramec River is fast moving river. It will get washed down to the rapids and someone will find and keep it.
They had several models, and most of them were wider than the model I had, which was more like a cigar cutter boat, long and narrow, with a 60 horse Mercury on it. Which was a tad bit heavy for that boat designed for a 40 horse, hi hi.
Back when I was just a teen, I bought an already ancient 5 HP Evenrude motor to take with us when we went fishing using either an Uncles or a Friends small fishing boat. I think it was made around 1954 and weighed as much as a current day 15 horse boat motor. It also had a much bigger prop on it than modern motors. So it would push the boats fairly fast with four or five of us in a little fishing boat.
I don't drink, but my cousin did, way too much. I only allowed him one six pack of beer when we went fishing together.
The joke there is, sometimes he might put a hook on his line, hi hi.
We also had a couple of small lakes we used to go to for fishing, not with a boat though. This one lake we could back down a dirt road right up to the waters edge, then walk about 10 feet to the right of where we parked, as there was a nice park bench there to sit on. Due to it's remote location, we never had to worry about anyone being there. The other side of the lake is where everyone congregated, because they had lots of parking, picnic tables, a couple of shelters, and bathrooms.
The park bench on our side was a curved steel frame set in concrete with wooden slat seat and back. It was within walking distance to the rangers cabin, and he often saw us and came down to talk. Turns out the former ranger is who installed the bench, and back then, no one could get to where it was located, and it was inside of a post and rail fence which was the rangers domain anyhow. But this new ranger liked us because we were not troublemakers like so many that sneak over to this side of the lake, hi hi. This lake was home to the rowing club, and was mainly used for small sailboats and the like. No motors allowed on the lake. And one area up near the pavilions was corded off as a swimming area.
I built a little speedboat once out of hardwood framing and marine plywood, treated with marine dope instead of fiberglass.
The entire thing was only 8 feet long and 4 feet wide at the widest point. The front was like the top half of a heart, and the back was just as rectangular box that held me and the motor.
A number of years later I bought as GW Invader (Gray & Woldridge) a racing boat. Glad I bought good insurance on it, because the third time I had it out running up and down the river, I hit a log and it shattered the bottom of the hull and it sunk. I though for sure the insurance company would come and pull it out of the river to salvage the motor, but no, they paid me and told me I should call a salvage company to come get it if they wanted it. I was smart enough to turn off the motor the second I hit the log, so it wouldn't get water in the pistons, and I told the insurance company this, hoping they would have it pulled out of the river. Not one salvage company was interested, said they would spend way too much time trying to locate it, as the Meramec River is fast moving river. It will get washed down to the rapids and someone will find and keep it.
They had several models, and most of them were wider than the model I had, which was more like a cigar cutter boat, long and narrow, with a 60 horse Mercury on it. Which was a tad bit heavy for that boat designed for a 40 horse, hi hi.
Back when I was just a teen, I bought an already ancient 5 HP Evenrude motor to take with us when we went fishing using either an Uncles or a Friends small fishing boat. I think it was made around 1954 and weighed as much as a current day 15 horse boat motor. It also had a much bigger prop on it than modern motors. So it would push the boats fairly fast with four or five of us in a little fishing boat.
Re: One More Reason
I enjoyed fishing for a few dozen years since childhood. While I admit I was a bit squeamish at first, I didn't mind stabbing night crawlers and putting them on hooks at the end of my bamboo pole. While that was messy, it wasn't until I went ice fishing with my wife's daddy that I learned how to bait hooks for ice fishing. It was a matter of turning a grub inside out and attaching it to a hook. It seemed to work best of all the methods, but thinking back on it I get chills down my spine. LOL
Baiting hooks with various critters ranging from crickets, to small frogs, to minnows was not as much fun as using worms. It was at that point I began to feel sorry for the bait, which obviously was in pain from being stabbed. But the real spine chiller was getting the fish off the hook. In many instances that's pretty easy, but in some cases the fish had to be mutilated in order to free it from the lure. Then I learned how to filet and clean fish. Well, that did it. Some of those fish were still alive when I started to filet them. Eventually I found that I simply could not deal with killing or mutilating all those critters. The justification was that we ate the fish as food, but somehow that didn't make me feel any better about it. So, sometime in my mid thirties I stopped fishing and never went back.
Two points off topic:
ONE is that a recessed light in our great room flickered and then went out. It came back on for a while but not for very long. When I got up there to poke it with a screwdriver, it finally came on and stayed on. But it obviously needs replacement. These recessed lights are LEDs with a diffusion lens to focus the light downward where it will do some good. It turns out that you cannot replace only the lens with the LED's. The entire fixture must be replaced. Apparently there are several kinds, just as is the case with conventional light bulbs. Well I could make do with a mismatched color and more or less lumins than the other lights. But, the fixture is either plugged into an electrical box mounted on a rafter or hard wired with wire nuts. I tried removing the flakey light fixture with no success. Some day when I'm feeling better I will find a crowbar and get that sucker out. Then I'll march over to Home Depot and hope they have something close because I know the exact replacement does not exist. It seems that it will cost a minimum of $35 and could double that price depending on what we ultimately choose. For some reason that is better than a light bulb with a filament which can be had for around a dollar or less.
TWO is that yesterday I visited the surgeon who repaired my hernia. The recovery was a bit more complicated than I expected but now slightly more than three weeks later I felt good enough to be able to drive the 25 miles to the doctor's office for a follow up. The holes they poked into my belly never had bandages; just glue. They are pretty much healed now. The soreness inside my intestinal tract is pretty much down to nothing. He looked it all over and told me it looks fine and that I can now go back to my routine activities. That implies I can now cut my own grass, but I decided to hold off on that for a few weeks. I'm enjoying my time watching somebody else do it for me. Anyway, in under a month I had surgery and am pretty close to being all healed again. Honestly, I find that all to be very amazing.
Baiting hooks with various critters ranging from crickets, to small frogs, to minnows was not as much fun as using worms. It was at that point I began to feel sorry for the bait, which obviously was in pain from being stabbed. But the real spine chiller was getting the fish off the hook. In many instances that's pretty easy, but in some cases the fish had to be mutilated in order to free it from the lure. Then I learned how to filet and clean fish. Well, that did it. Some of those fish were still alive when I started to filet them. Eventually I found that I simply could not deal with killing or mutilating all those critters. The justification was that we ate the fish as food, but somehow that didn't make me feel any better about it. So, sometime in my mid thirties I stopped fishing and never went back.
Two points off topic:
ONE is that a recessed light in our great room flickered and then went out. It came back on for a while but not for very long. When I got up there to poke it with a screwdriver, it finally came on and stayed on. But it obviously needs replacement. These recessed lights are LEDs with a diffusion lens to focus the light downward where it will do some good. It turns out that you cannot replace only the lens with the LED's. The entire fixture must be replaced. Apparently there are several kinds, just as is the case with conventional light bulbs. Well I could make do with a mismatched color and more or less lumins than the other lights. But, the fixture is either plugged into an electrical box mounted on a rafter or hard wired with wire nuts. I tried removing the flakey light fixture with no success. Some day when I'm feeling better I will find a crowbar and get that sucker out. Then I'll march over to Home Depot and hope they have something close because I know the exact replacement does not exist. It seems that it will cost a minimum of $35 and could double that price depending on what we ultimately choose. For some reason that is better than a light bulb with a filament which can be had for around a dollar or less.
TWO is that yesterday I visited the surgeon who repaired my hernia. The recovery was a bit more complicated than I expected but now slightly more than three weeks later I felt good enough to be able to drive the 25 miles to the doctor's office for a follow up. The holes they poked into my belly never had bandages; just glue. They are pretty much healed now. The soreness inside my intestinal tract is pretty much down to nothing. He looked it all over and told me it looks fine and that I can now go back to my routine activities. That implies I can now cut my own grass, but I decided to hold off on that for a few weeks. I'm enjoying my time watching somebody else do it for me. Anyway, in under a month I had surgery and am pretty close to being all healed again. Honestly, I find that all to be very amazing.
Re: One More Reason
I hear ya! When I was much younger, I enjoyed it. But after I got older, most of the time I wore a rubber glove to take the fish off the hook and throw it back in the water. Only brought one fish home in the early 80s and none after that.
We have a few Halogen lamps that take a special bulb by a specific manufacturer. Although there are several brands out there that might fit, there is usually one reason or another why they don't fit right, if they fit at all.
We found one that does fit which instead of Halogen is a series of LEDs in the bulb with a lens. It cost a bunch more than the normal lights, but I really like the light it puts out, a bit more than the Halogens, without the heat.
I've already had quite a few LED replacement lamps burn out, more than they should. And I learned something, you can get some that don't use a transformer. They look like antique lights, so are considered decorative, but what makes them work is in the tiny little base. They do draw about 1 watt more than the ones with the transformers, but so far, we've never had one of those type burn out yet.
We just threw away an LED desk lamp, because there was no way to replace the lamp, it was integral with the housing. It was the frau's and she bought it because she liked the look of it on her desk. Needless to say she is POed over it burning out so soon.
Wow, that is wonderful you have healed up so fast, and the pain subsided already, or close to it.
We have a few Halogen lamps that take a special bulb by a specific manufacturer. Although there are several brands out there that might fit, there is usually one reason or another why they don't fit right, if they fit at all.
We found one that does fit which instead of Halogen is a series of LEDs in the bulb with a lens. It cost a bunch more than the normal lights, but I really like the light it puts out, a bit more than the Halogens, without the heat.
I've already had quite a few LED replacement lamps burn out, more than they should. And I learned something, you can get some that don't use a transformer. They look like antique lights, so are considered decorative, but what makes them work is in the tiny little base. They do draw about 1 watt more than the ones with the transformers, but so far, we've never had one of those type burn out yet.
We just threw away an LED desk lamp, because there was no way to replace the lamp, it was integral with the housing. It was the frau's and she bought it because she liked the look of it on her desk. Needless to say she is POed over it burning out so soon.
Wow, that is wonderful you have healed up so fast, and the pain subsided already, or close to it.
Re: One More Reason
Halogen lighting was fantastic when it was first introduced. I've had only a couple lamps that used those type bulbs and they are in reality a disaster. If you touch the bulb glass with your finger it will cause the light to burn out super quickly. This was a big pain in the butt on one of the automobiles we had. The headlight bulb had to be seated in some kind of grease that was placed into the socket. If any of that grease got on the surface of the bulb, it had to be replaced again inside of a week. I also had a desktop lamp with a Halogen light system and it got hot as the Dickens. It was dangerous and I don't see how such a thing ever got approved for retail sales. Fortunately, as you note, LED's can be made to shine very brightly and look pretty much like an ordinary bulb. I don't see the advantage of using the LED's in my ceiling fixture if it cannot be replaced. Why is it better to require replacement of the entire fixture instead of just screwing in a new bulb? I can still get on a ladder and deal with it, but a lot of people my age cannot do that. They would have to hire somebody at $75/hr to come and change the fixture.
One of the huge advantages of Laparoscopic surgery is that there is minimal collateral damage and the healing process is quickened. I had that done when my prostate gland came down with cancer. The healing process was not pleasant, but I didn't loose much function in the urinary tract and my recovery time was about a month shorter than conventional surgery. Unfortunately not every situation qualifies for Laparoscopy. They gave me a list of instruction for post surgery care wherein they listed all the possibilities of what I might expect. There were some very gory and brutal side effects mentioned but I discovered that most of it did not apply to me. Hernias can be very massive or just a slight incident, which apparently is what I had. Nothing big. The intestines did not poke through the muscle and it was detected at an early stage. Thus the surgery was simple and the recovery was not lengthy. I had a rough two weeks, but that was not the same as the eight weeks they said was possible for other types of recovery.
One of the huge advantages of Laparoscopic surgery is that there is minimal collateral damage and the healing process is quickened. I had that done when my prostate gland came down with cancer. The healing process was not pleasant, but I didn't loose much function in the urinary tract and my recovery time was about a month shorter than conventional surgery. Unfortunately not every situation qualifies for Laparoscopy. They gave me a list of instruction for post surgery care wherein they listed all the possibilities of what I might expect. There were some very gory and brutal side effects mentioned but I discovered that most of it did not apply to me. Hernias can be very massive or just a slight incident, which apparently is what I had. Nothing big. The intestines did not poke through the muscle and it was detected at an early stage. Thus the surgery was simple and the recovery was not lengthy. I had a rough two weeks, but that was not the same as the eight weeks they said was possible for other types of recovery.
Re: One More Reason
When LED lighting first came out, they were as bad as compact fluorescent's as far as lifetime was concerned.
Most often it was the transformer that went bad, in both types.
That is why I'm glad I found some LED lamps that don't use transformers.
The ones in my office, you can't tell from a normal frosted glass bulb, because they are glass.
And what powers them is inside the metal screw in base, so they look like a normal bulb too.
I have a few three bulb, and four bulb fixtures here.
Most LED's will not work in them, without having one or two incandescent bulbs in with them.
They must put out some kind of radio interference that makes them mess with themselves.
On the three light fixture, if I put all three LED's in there, they are all very dim.
Take any bulb out and they work just fine with only two. Put an incandescent in and they work just fine.
About the same thing with the four lamp fixture. With two LED's it works. Add the third and it goes dim, add a fourth and they all go out.
That is why I'm glad I found the antique looking ones I did with no transformers.
They all work no matter how many bulbs are in there.
We have a dining room chandelier that uses medium base bulbs, and a normal base bulb in the center.
As the incandescent bulbs burn out, I'm replacing them with some really cute LED lamps like those I mentioned that work.
My wife found some LED lamps that have a touch of neon gas in them which is interesting.
Although they are LED's, if you use them on a dimmer switch, you can turn them down just enough they look like the old flicker flame bulbs.
She also bought another lamp that is weird to say the least. It is for upright candelabra's only.
They are not made to put out much light, but to also look like a flaming candle.
This is done using an LED lamp down inside the bulb, and a piece of white plastic above the bulb that wiggles back and forth.
Now what makes it wiggle back and forth I have no idea. But I do have a hunch.
Think of the letter T upside down. Although the plastic is shaped like a flame, the very bottom of the upside down T is jet black. My thought on the matter is it might work something like a Radiometer. White chases Black or vice versa.
As the light gets blocked by the base of the upside down T for one side of the flame, it causes it to move back and forth, alternating between the right and left side of the white part the light hits.
It's cute, but not worth what she spent on it, that's for sure, hi hi.
I didn't know much about those kinds of surgeries, but I'm glad you qualified for the type that was less invasive and faster to heal up. Sometimes you just luck out, even from a bad situation.
Most often it was the transformer that went bad, in both types.
That is why I'm glad I found some LED lamps that don't use transformers.
The ones in my office, you can't tell from a normal frosted glass bulb, because they are glass.
And what powers them is inside the metal screw in base, so they look like a normal bulb too.
I have a few three bulb, and four bulb fixtures here.
Most LED's will not work in them, without having one or two incandescent bulbs in with them.
They must put out some kind of radio interference that makes them mess with themselves.
On the three light fixture, if I put all three LED's in there, they are all very dim.
Take any bulb out and they work just fine with only two. Put an incandescent in and they work just fine.
About the same thing with the four lamp fixture. With two LED's it works. Add the third and it goes dim, add a fourth and they all go out.
That is why I'm glad I found the antique looking ones I did with no transformers.
They all work no matter how many bulbs are in there.
We have a dining room chandelier that uses medium base bulbs, and a normal base bulb in the center.
As the incandescent bulbs burn out, I'm replacing them with some really cute LED lamps like those I mentioned that work.
My wife found some LED lamps that have a touch of neon gas in them which is interesting.
Although they are LED's, if you use them on a dimmer switch, you can turn them down just enough they look like the old flicker flame bulbs.
She also bought another lamp that is weird to say the least. It is for upright candelabra's only.
They are not made to put out much light, but to also look like a flaming candle.
This is done using an LED lamp down inside the bulb, and a piece of white plastic above the bulb that wiggles back and forth.
Now what makes it wiggle back and forth I have no idea. But I do have a hunch.
Think of the letter T upside down. Although the plastic is shaped like a flame, the very bottom of the upside down T is jet black. My thought on the matter is it might work something like a Radiometer. White chases Black or vice versa.
As the light gets blocked by the base of the upside down T for one side of the flame, it causes it to move back and forth, alternating between the right and left side of the white part the light hits.
It's cute, but not worth what she spent on it, that's for sure, hi hi.
I didn't know much about those kinds of surgeries, but I'm glad you qualified for the type that was less invasive and faster to heal up. Sometimes you just luck out, even from a bad situation.
Re: One More Reason
I've seen those antique looking LED lights at Home Depot. They are in the minority and do in fact have clear glass for the bulb. Home Depot has a ton of LED type bulbs to choose from, but there are other places that have literally thousands of choices. The selection of bulbs that look like conventional filament lighting is quite large, and the pricing is hard to understand. The Home Depot bulbs typically can be had for $2-$3 if you buy them in bulk. Some of the bigger houses I found on line will sell the same type for just under $10 a bulb. There is a difference in more than just the price. Unfortunately I don't know exactly what that difference could be.
Your tale of self-neutralizing LED lights is interesting. The transformer of which you speak is a common step-down variety as far as I know. There is more or less electronics in some of those bulb bases which make them dimable or not. Obviously something is going on if there is a proximity problem, but I cannot understand what it would be. I've never read any warnings or theory regarding LED light bulbs being too close to each other. It does makes sense that transformers could interfere with each other if they are too close. But, I would also think people who make these LED bulbs would be perfectly aware of the interference potential and shield against it.
We have a bunch of those boob fixtures with two or three bulbs in them. Those things were originally installed with filament type bulbs and only lasted a couple years. I replaced them all with LED type bulbs and most seems to be working fine. Some fixtures, however, seem to be self destructive. The only solution I have not tried yet is to get some of those $10 LED bulbs and see if they will last longer than a few months. I have my doubts, but it's not easy changing bulbs in a fixture nine feet off the floor.
INTERESTING LED BULB READING: https://www.powerelectronictips.com/tea ... led-bulbs/
Your tale of self-neutralizing LED lights is interesting. The transformer of which you speak is a common step-down variety as far as I know. There is more or less electronics in some of those bulb bases which make them dimable or not. Obviously something is going on if there is a proximity problem, but I cannot understand what it would be. I've never read any warnings or theory regarding LED light bulbs being too close to each other. It does makes sense that transformers could interfere with each other if they are too close. But, I would also think people who make these LED bulbs would be perfectly aware of the interference potential and shield against it.
We have a bunch of those boob fixtures with two or three bulbs in them. Those things were originally installed with filament type bulbs and only lasted a couple years. I replaced them all with LED type bulbs and most seems to be working fine. Some fixtures, however, seem to be self destructive. The only solution I have not tried yet is to get some of those $10 LED bulbs and see if they will last longer than a few months. I have my doubts, but it's not easy changing bulbs in a fixture nine feet off the floor.
INTERESTING LED BULB READING: https://www.powerelectronictips.com/tea ... led-bulbs/
Re: One More Reason
I know how the prices for bulbs have been all over the place.
In some cases, you get what you pay for, other times, the low priced ones last longer.
The LED's that gave me the trouble are the ones with the white plastic bases on them.
I don't have any left around here that were not dimmable.
That's the only kind I buy now, regardless of what fixture they go into.
They seem to be better made and so far, I've never had one sold as dimmable that has burned out.
While almost all of the ones that were not dimmable have been long gone.
I bought 6 green compact fluorescent lamps equivalent to a 60 watt bulb, way back in like 2006 or 7.
I put them in our 6 outdoor fixtures for the Christmas season.
I left one green one down in the pole lamp by the road, as an invite to ex-military seeking a place to eat or stay.
I put them out each year before Christmas, and little by little, they've been burning out, with hardly any hours on them.
The one down by the road, that I had left, kept working for at least 8 years, then it died.
I did have one more I had placed in a swing arm desk lamp to light up the walkway in my garage between the mandoor and my office door. It was the only one still burning after Christmas, so that is where it ended up. It is still working in 2022, and it is on 24/7 unless our power goes out. It hasn't been in use until after about the five year mark of being used annually outside.
Last year around this time of year, I bought a four-pack of Walmart Great Value dimmable, glass, 60 watt equiv. LEDs.
Three of them are working together just fine in my office ceiling light fixture.
These also only have the metal base without the white plastic, so you cannot tell from a non-LED bulb.
They are frosted inside and look like any other incandescent bulb.
And they were cheap too, like 8 bucks for a box of 4.
In some cases, you get what you pay for, other times, the low priced ones last longer.
The LED's that gave me the trouble are the ones with the white plastic bases on them.
I don't have any left around here that were not dimmable.
That's the only kind I buy now, regardless of what fixture they go into.
They seem to be better made and so far, I've never had one sold as dimmable that has burned out.
While almost all of the ones that were not dimmable have been long gone.
I bought 6 green compact fluorescent lamps equivalent to a 60 watt bulb, way back in like 2006 or 7.
I put them in our 6 outdoor fixtures for the Christmas season.
I left one green one down in the pole lamp by the road, as an invite to ex-military seeking a place to eat or stay.
I put them out each year before Christmas, and little by little, they've been burning out, with hardly any hours on them.
The one down by the road, that I had left, kept working for at least 8 years, then it died.
I did have one more I had placed in a swing arm desk lamp to light up the walkway in my garage between the mandoor and my office door. It was the only one still burning after Christmas, so that is where it ended up. It is still working in 2022, and it is on 24/7 unless our power goes out. It hasn't been in use until after about the five year mark of being used annually outside.
Last year around this time of year, I bought a four-pack of Walmart Great Value dimmable, glass, 60 watt equiv. LEDs.
Three of them are working together just fine in my office ceiling light fixture.
These also only have the metal base without the white plastic, so you cannot tell from a non-LED bulb.
They are frosted inside and look like any other incandescent bulb.
And they were cheap too, like 8 bucks for a box of 4.
Re: One More Reason
While that article I cited didn't go into a lot of detail with circuit design, there were some comments that made me think about your situation. The dimming process involves using a triangle wave fed to the LEDs. Altering that wave changes the average power level and thus causes the LEDs to dim or be bright. I suppose it is possible for some external interference, such as a similar triangle wave generator in an adjacent bulb, to alter the wave form and cause the LEDs to dim unexpectedly. It's interesting that you only use lights that are dimable. That fits right into the external interference possibility.
The base of the bulb is often where the heat sink is. Every manufacturer has their own design and one or two of them don't even use a heat sink. In the end they all work the same way. Physical appearance would be a matter of the design engineers creativity. The appearance of the bulb only matters when I can see it, such as in the bathroom fixtures. Those ceiling lights can be ugly as they care to be on the inside given that I can't see the bulb to begin with. Based on my experience with electronics I know and appreciate the value of a heat sink. My guess is some bulbs skimp on that part which causes the LEDs to burn out from heat stress prematurely. So, the moral of the story would be to buy bulbs that weigh the most. LOL
The base of the bulb is often where the heat sink is. Every manufacturer has their own design and one or two of them don't even use a heat sink. In the end they all work the same way. Physical appearance would be a matter of the design engineers creativity. The appearance of the bulb only matters when I can see it, such as in the bathroom fixtures. Those ceiling lights can be ugly as they care to be on the inside given that I can't see the bulb to begin with. Based on my experience with electronics I know and appreciate the value of a heat sink. My guess is some bulbs skimp on that part which causes the LEDs to burn out from heat stress prematurely. So, the moral of the story would be to buy bulbs that weigh the most. LOL
Re: One More Reason
The dimmable ones don't have a problem, only those that had the white plastic cover over the bottom.
I attribute it to the types that have a transformer in them, and naturally a voltage reduction circuit like they all do.
It seems those that are dimmable have a better type of circuit in them than those that don't.
I've had expensive ones, and I have cheap ones. I like the cheaper ones because they seem to work better and last longer.
When I say the cheap ones, I'm referring to the more expensive decorative ones, but those that are cheaper than others.
I attribute it to the types that have a transformer in them, and naturally a voltage reduction circuit like they all do.
It seems those that are dimmable have a better type of circuit in them than those that don't.
I've had expensive ones, and I have cheap ones. I like the cheaper ones because they seem to work better and last longer.
When I say the cheap ones, I'm referring to the more expensive decorative ones, but those that are cheaper than others.
Re: One More Reason
All LED lamps must have a transformer, or some other way to reduce the line voltage to a level that will not annihilate the LED. That transformer and some filtering of the rectifier is all you will find inside the not dimable bulbs. In order to dim an LED the power to it must be altered. Those bulbs which can be dimmed have an electronic circuit that can change the power to the LEDs. There is no standard way of doing it, but the above article found a triangle wave generator in one of the bulbs they dissected. Varying that triangle is how they dimmed the light. That's all I know. I've not read about what makes LED bulbs do what LED bulbs do. The article I found is all I got for this discussion. Why you have problems with certain bulbs and not with others is beyond me. I do have some LEDs that burn out, but that's actually pretty rare and confined to certain fixtures. There's nothing in the fixture that could accelerate the life cycle of an LED bulb so I am clueless why it's happening. The bottom line suggesting LED lights are energy efficient is just so much BS. They may use less electricity over the long run, but replacement and maintenance is exponentially more expensive compared to filament style bulbs.
Re: One More Reason
Here is a page that shows you the innards including the schematic diagrams for a few non-dimmable LED lamps.
https://www.powerelectronictips.com/tea ... led-bulbs/
And here is one showing how it is done on a Triac based dimmer switch normally found in homes.
It is more complex to get an LED to work with this type of dimmer.
But it makes for a much more compact circuit in the lamp itself.
https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/ics ... n-circuits
I just looked at about 100 schematics for what's in the base of a dimmable LED light bulb.
I may be wrong, but it looks like they are only sampling the line voltage using same as a pulse width modulator to step down the voltage and using it in a complex circuit that allows the lamp to be dimmed using the standard old and new style dimmer switches for incandescent lamps.
I also found where they make a dimmer switch designed for LED lamps, so even non-dimmable should be able to be dimmed using that type of dimmer, again, they are PWM devices instead of the old analog style dimmer switches.
This also means if you put an incandescent lamp in the fixture, it may not be dimmable due to the circuit design of the dimmer, hi hi. Might even burn it out, hi hi.
There are no transformers in the dimmable LED lamps that run off 110 to 120 volts, which is why the circuit can fit into the base of the bulb.
Interesting stuff for sure!
https://www.powerelectronictips.com/tea ... led-bulbs/
And here is one showing how it is done on a Triac based dimmer switch normally found in homes.
It is more complex to get an LED to work with this type of dimmer.
But it makes for a much more compact circuit in the lamp itself.
https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/ics ... n-circuits
I just looked at about 100 schematics for what's in the base of a dimmable LED light bulb.
I may be wrong, but it looks like they are only sampling the line voltage using same as a pulse width modulator to step down the voltage and using it in a complex circuit that allows the lamp to be dimmed using the standard old and new style dimmer switches for incandescent lamps.
I also found where they make a dimmer switch designed for LED lamps, so even non-dimmable should be able to be dimmed using that type of dimmer, again, they are PWM devices instead of the old analog style dimmer switches.
This also means if you put an incandescent lamp in the fixture, it may not be dimmable due to the circuit design of the dimmer, hi hi. Might even burn it out, hi hi.
There are no transformers in the dimmable LED lamps that run off 110 to 120 volts, which is why the circuit can fit into the base of the bulb.
Interesting stuff for sure!
Re: One More Reason
An LED will turn into flaming silicon on a PC board if the voltage to it is significantly above 3 volts. There are numerous ways to tune down 120 VAC to a non-destructive voltage/amperage needed for LEDs to function properly. A transformer is only one way. The power (volts x amps) to an LED is what makes it glow. I'm certain you can image a few ways to vary that power and thus create a dimable LED light bulb. Both the article I quoted and the two you followed up with show how it may all be possible. All I know is that all the electronics inside any LED bulb is way more vulnerable to failure than it's equivalent filament light bulb. The argument that LEDS use less power is true, but they fail to point out they are much less durable as well, advertising hype notwithstanding.
Re: One More Reason
I've taken the LED element out of a few light bulbs that quit working, and applying 1.5 volts from an AA battery made them light up fairly bright. This is how I know it is the electronic circuit, namely the transformer that went south. Often you will find a burnt spot on the tiny transformers side.
One bulb I took apart was sorta like a surprise inside. It did not have an electronic circuit board at all. It had a simple step down transformer, and a bridge rectifier. That was it, nothing else in it, other than the LED which was glued on top of the bridge rectifier. This LED did not light up using a 1.5 volt battery, nor with two batteries, so I figured the LED on that one went south, and the transformer was still OK. I had it sitting around here for about a month before I cleaned off that area of a desk.
I've worked in houses who's lighting system was 24 volt AC to the switches, and they operated a simple relay which then sent 110 volts to the lighting fixtures.
I've also worked in a house where their entire ceiling lighting was done using 12 volt DC, most of the light fixtures had bulbs similar to what you find in the taillight of a car, but a few of them used 12 volt standard size light bulbs. Like the 100 watt one I used in my boat. All of the ceiling lights also a 12 volt backup system with a row of white wet cell batteries, all inside a large brown box, probably bakelite considering the era. It had a tiny brass tube that went to the wall to outside, but the tube looked like it might have actually been two tubes inside a larger tube. The whole set-up was odd for a house. I think the guy said he got replacement lamps from a boat supply house, because they were cheaper and lasted longer than the ones from an auto parts store.
One bulb I took apart was sorta like a surprise inside. It did not have an electronic circuit board at all. It had a simple step down transformer, and a bridge rectifier. That was it, nothing else in it, other than the LED which was glued on top of the bridge rectifier. This LED did not light up using a 1.5 volt battery, nor with two batteries, so I figured the LED on that one went south, and the transformer was still OK. I had it sitting around here for about a month before I cleaned off that area of a desk.
I've worked in houses who's lighting system was 24 volt AC to the switches, and they operated a simple relay which then sent 110 volts to the lighting fixtures.
I've also worked in a house where their entire ceiling lighting was done using 12 volt DC, most of the light fixtures had bulbs similar to what you find in the taillight of a car, but a few of them used 12 volt standard size light bulbs. Like the 100 watt one I used in my boat. All of the ceiling lights also a 12 volt backup system with a row of white wet cell batteries, all inside a large brown box, probably bakelite considering the era. It had a tiny brass tube that went to the wall to outside, but the tube looked like it might have actually been two tubes inside a larger tube. The whole set-up was odd for a house. I think the guy said he got replacement lamps from a boat supply house, because they were cheaper and lasted longer than the ones from an auto parts store.
Re: One More Reason
An LED is a diode that emits light. That means it has a working voltage of about 1.5 volts. Thus you can light your house with LEDs and AAA batteries if you didn't mind replacing them all the time. The light you found with only a transformer and a bridge rectifier is all the LED needs assuming the output voltage of the transformer is in the operating range of the LED. You could add filters and circuit protection, but all that means it would cost more to manufacture. Dimable bulbs most likely have integrated circuity of some sort. That would be needed to vary the power to the LED. Most IC's work in the 5VDC range so that the same step down transformer used on non-dimmers can be used in dimming lights. The triggered diodes (PWM) can take the place of a transformer, but the output must not exceed the breakdown voltage of the LED or other control circuitry. So, if a bulb doesn't have a transformer the voltage is being regulated some other way. The most likely device to burn out due to transients on a normal AC line is the Integrated Circuitry.
An old friend of mine wired up his dining room chandelier with a 24 VDC system that had no visible wires. The light did have chains for decorative purposes and he used those chains to conduct the current to the lights. I was impressed at the time because the chandelier looked a bit out of the ordinary. The chains were not copper and looking back I have no idea why it all worked to begin with.
An old friend of mine wired up his dining room chandelier with a 24 VDC system that had no visible wires. The light did have chains for decorative purposes and he used those chains to conduct the current to the lights. I was impressed at the time because the chandelier looked a bit out of the ordinary. The chains were not copper and looking back I have no idea why it all worked to begin with.
Re: One More Reason
One of the reasons LED lamps in tail lights on cars, use banks of 8 LEDs in series on the taillight, and 6 LEDs in series on the brake lamp portion, is so they can run directly on the 12 volt circuit.
I saw one that came from a bus, and it had 3 separate banks of 8 LEDs for the taillight, and 3 separate banks of 6 LEDs for the brake lamp which was a separate set of LEDs on the same board.
There is also a resistor on each one, so if one LED burns out, the rest will keep going, at least on the bus one we tore apart. I imagine the car ones have something similar.
What I don't know anything about are those super bright single LEDs that are huge and either a square or a rectangle.
Debi has a two flashlights and both are 6 volts and they only have one square LED in it. Darn thing will blind you too, hi hi.
That chandelier must have had at least two separate chains that didn't touch each other.
You need a Ground and a Hot wire to light a lamp using AC or DC.
I've lit some fluorescent tubes using nothing more than my ham radio and holding the tube near a node on the antenna.
In fact, we used to hand little neon lights on a few antennas so they would light up when we transmit.
Even a CB radio will light a neon light on the tip of the antenna if the wattage is low enough for CB that is.
A company used to sell them under the name of Fireflies, actually just Firefly.
Also, if you go to those huge electric transmission towers, you can find spots on the ground under them where a fluorescent tube will light up.
I saw one that came from a bus, and it had 3 separate banks of 8 LEDs for the taillight, and 3 separate banks of 6 LEDs for the brake lamp which was a separate set of LEDs on the same board.
There is also a resistor on each one, so if one LED burns out, the rest will keep going, at least on the bus one we tore apart. I imagine the car ones have something similar.
What I don't know anything about are those super bright single LEDs that are huge and either a square or a rectangle.
Debi has a two flashlights and both are 6 volts and they only have one square LED in it. Darn thing will blind you too, hi hi.
That chandelier must have had at least two separate chains that didn't touch each other.
You need a Ground and a Hot wire to light a lamp using AC or DC.
I've lit some fluorescent tubes using nothing more than my ham radio and holding the tube near a node on the antenna.
In fact, we used to hand little neon lights on a few antennas so they would light up when we transmit.
Even a CB radio will light a neon light on the tip of the antenna if the wattage is low enough for CB that is.
A company used to sell them under the name of Fireflies, actually just Firefly.
Also, if you go to those huge electric transmission towers, you can find spots on the ground under them where a fluorescent tube will light up.
Re: One More Reason
Yes indeed, florescent lighting works on ionization of the gas in the tube. All that is needed is electromagnetic energy of some sort. RF qualifies.
Maybe I'm just old school but those automobile LED lights are not impressive. They are basically a brainchild of some marketing dude who had to pay his congressman a ton of money to change the laws so that squiggly LEDs are legal as automotive lighting. I too am amazed at how much light can be produced by a single LED. I don't know what makes them brighter, but it's probably the amount of real estate it takes up. In other words surface area. Some LEDs must also use different elements to make them glow brighter or a different color. It's not always a matter of power being supplied. I keep getting spam from people who want me to buy those high output flashlights. They can blind a deer at 1000 yards apparently. LOL
Went to Home Depot today to try and replace the recessed LED lamp that is dying a slow and painful death. The variety and variation of LED ceiling lighting is overwhelming. Then there is the mechanics that holds it into the socket and the wire plug. Fortunately the plug seems fairly standard, but there are different ones. I found no less than two dozen to choose from but not one that was 12 watt to operate and 1000 lumens (75 watt bulb equivilant). All those 75 watt bulbs were missing and only an empty shelf remained in place. Came home and tried to find them online, which turned out to be an even greater disaster than perusing Home Depot. I put the exact part number into the search bar and got everything but what I'm looking for. Fortunately Amazon had some exact replacements by the same manufacturer that made our bulbs. It was only about twelve lines down from the promoted ads. I'm really getting fed up with Google.
Maybe I'm just old school but those automobile LED lights are not impressive. They are basically a brainchild of some marketing dude who had to pay his congressman a ton of money to change the laws so that squiggly LEDs are legal as automotive lighting. I too am amazed at how much light can be produced by a single LED. I don't know what makes them brighter, but it's probably the amount of real estate it takes up. In other words surface area. Some LEDs must also use different elements to make them glow brighter or a different color. It's not always a matter of power being supplied. I keep getting spam from people who want me to buy those high output flashlights. They can blind a deer at 1000 yards apparently. LOL
Went to Home Depot today to try and replace the recessed LED lamp that is dying a slow and painful death. The variety and variation of LED ceiling lighting is overwhelming. Then there is the mechanics that holds it into the socket and the wire plug. Fortunately the plug seems fairly standard, but there are different ones. I found no less than two dozen to choose from but not one that was 12 watt to operate and 1000 lumens (75 watt bulb equivilant). All those 75 watt bulbs were missing and only an empty shelf remained in place. Came home and tried to find them online, which turned out to be an even greater disaster than perusing Home Depot. I put the exact part number into the search bar and got everything but what I'm looking for. Fortunately Amazon had some exact replacements by the same manufacturer that made our bulbs. It was only about twelve lines down from the promoted ads. I'm really getting fed up with Google.
Re: One More Reason
I don't like LEDs on cars at all, especially the LED headlights, they are quite blinding to us older folks.
A guy in front of me a few nights ago, his taillights were brighter than most, and the brake lights were super bright, couldn't miss them. But we he turned on his blinker, I swear he replaced the LEDs with LASERS!
The won't conserve energy in a car anyhow either.
Maybe you should try "StartPage" or "DuckDuckGo" I use DDG quite often myself when I really need to find something.
But NEVER click on an advertisement on DDG, they don't check for virus or other malcontent.
Also, they send your fingerprint to any ad you click on.
I was hunting for a certain Candy and although Google listed a few places, I still checked DDG and found a larger size box for cheaper and with free shipping. I ordered, it came right away, and the candy was FRESH.
Got some good deals on supply items using DDG also.
Hmm. 75 watt equivalent LED bulbs are only 9 watts. 100 watt equivalent LED bulbs are the 12 watt.
Be careful you don't get Feit brand because they don't last very long.
Walmart had both 60 watt equivalent and 75 watt equivalent, ALL GLASS, dimmable lights in their Great Value brand for a very fair price compared to other places. I bought four boxes of each. I use the 60 watts in multi-light fixtures in my office, and 75 watts in my outdoor lighting fixtures, even though they are not dimmable, I still buy the dimmable type because I like the way they are made. So far, I've never had a dimmable give me problems or burn out yet.
A guy in front of me a few nights ago, his taillights were brighter than most, and the brake lights were super bright, couldn't miss them. But we he turned on his blinker, I swear he replaced the LEDs with LASERS!
The won't conserve energy in a car anyhow either.
Maybe you should try "StartPage" or "DuckDuckGo" I use DDG quite often myself when I really need to find something.
But NEVER click on an advertisement on DDG, they don't check for virus or other malcontent.
Also, they send your fingerprint to any ad you click on.
I was hunting for a certain Candy and although Google listed a few places, I still checked DDG and found a larger size box for cheaper and with free shipping. I ordered, it came right away, and the candy was FRESH.
Got some good deals on supply items using DDG also.
Hmm. 75 watt equivalent LED bulbs are only 9 watts. 100 watt equivalent LED bulbs are the 12 watt.
Be careful you don't get Feit brand because they don't last very long.
Walmart had both 60 watt equivalent and 75 watt equivalent, ALL GLASS, dimmable lights in their Great Value brand for a very fair price compared to other places. I bought four boxes of each. I use the 60 watts in multi-light fixtures in my office, and 75 watts in my outdoor lighting fixtures, even though they are not dimmable, I still buy the dimmable type because I like the way they are made. So far, I've never had a dimmable give me problems or burn out yet.