Waiting In Line
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Any topic is acceptable, and topic drift is permissible.
Re: Waiting In Line
we have 2 dogs and could NOT get the to line up.
Re: Waiting In Line
I was wondering how they got all those dogs to sit still long enough to pose for the picture. It's amazing.
Re: Waiting In Line
It's not hard Yogi! Besides, the picture was probably photo-shopped.
I just watched a video where a guy opened the gate to the dog pen and they all sat there waiting for him to call each by name before they came out of the gate to the main yard.
Back home, I could leave my front door wide open and my dogs knew not to cross that threshold.
Then we added a new pooch who saw a squirrel and they all took off like gangbusters, hi hi...
I whistled and they call came back, tail between their legs, knowing they broke the rule.
I just watched a video where a guy opened the gate to the dog pen and they all sat there waiting for him to call each by name before they came out of the gate to the main yard.
Back home, I could leave my front door wide open and my dogs knew not to cross that threshold.
Then we added a new pooch who saw a squirrel and they all took off like gangbusters, hi hi...
I whistled and they call came back, tail between their legs, knowing they broke the rule.
Re: Waiting In Line
Re: Waiting In Line
Hi Pil, without getting into a lengthy dissertation on how to train almost any pet, I'll start by saying their are two types of training, and although they are closely related, the methods used are entirely different.
I am quite good at what is called trick training, but not so hot at behavior training, unless I can use some of the trick training methods to do so.
There is a simple one dollar tool I use for 90% of the training I do. But to learn to use it properly, it really should be used on another human being first, because they can tell you where you are going wrong. A bird or pooch will get really confused if your timing is not perfect. This is the reason you want to practice using the tool on a human first.
You probably had this tool as a toy when you were younger, it's called a Cricket.
The actual training tool is louder because the cricket is housed inside a little plastic box.
Honestly, it is much easier to train a dog or cat than a bird. Dogs can read your body language and understand verbal commands.
Birds can also, but not in the same way. Birds have keen eyesight and can notice simple things, like you moving a finger as a cue for them to do something. As an example, I would move one finger for them to wave, and two fingers for them to both wave and say goodbye. That same finger can also be used for the to do other things, like moving the finger in a circular motion.
Teaching a trick is done following a chain of motions, each taught a little at a time, and you build the motions one after another to complete a chain of motions. With birds, a routine is developed as a series of chains linked together, one right after the other in the same order. But with dogs, you can often use the individual chains in random orders, and link each one to a verbal command.
Most animals will "work for food," especially a treat, hi hi... But you never want to overdo treats! I use super small treats, most between the size of a pea and a marble, depending on the size of the dog. And whatever amount of treats they received during training deducts twice as much of their daily ration of normal food, to make up for the added fat in the treats.
It is easier to train an animal that is a little bit hungry, not starved or they are thinking about nothing but food instead of learning.
With birds, I watch to see which item in their seed dish they eat first. Then I take this item out of their seed dish and use it for treats. For dogs, you normally need to use a treat type item over a food type item.
I'll be glad to talk a little bit more about clicker training if you are interested. It is really easy, once you learn how to use a clicker properly so it doesn't confuse your pet. Pets are taught one simple movement at a time, then rewarded. Once they have mastered that single movement, then you move onto the next small movement and they no longer get a treat for the first movement, they must progress to earn a treat. Never ever ever click a cricket unless you have a treat ready. When used as a training tool, that click means they earned a treat, regardless of why the cricket was clicked. They will lose all trust in the sound if it fails to be the sound of an upcoming reward.
Once again, it is best to learn to use a clicker by first using it with a human, and I will be glad to explain how and when to click later, if you want to know.
I am quite good at what is called trick training, but not so hot at behavior training, unless I can use some of the trick training methods to do so.
There is a simple one dollar tool I use for 90% of the training I do. But to learn to use it properly, it really should be used on another human being first, because they can tell you where you are going wrong. A bird or pooch will get really confused if your timing is not perfect. This is the reason you want to practice using the tool on a human first.
You probably had this tool as a toy when you were younger, it's called a Cricket.
The actual training tool is louder because the cricket is housed inside a little plastic box.
Honestly, it is much easier to train a dog or cat than a bird. Dogs can read your body language and understand verbal commands.
Birds can also, but not in the same way. Birds have keen eyesight and can notice simple things, like you moving a finger as a cue for them to do something. As an example, I would move one finger for them to wave, and two fingers for them to both wave and say goodbye. That same finger can also be used for the to do other things, like moving the finger in a circular motion.
Teaching a trick is done following a chain of motions, each taught a little at a time, and you build the motions one after another to complete a chain of motions. With birds, a routine is developed as a series of chains linked together, one right after the other in the same order. But with dogs, you can often use the individual chains in random orders, and link each one to a verbal command.
Most animals will "work for food," especially a treat, hi hi... But you never want to overdo treats! I use super small treats, most between the size of a pea and a marble, depending on the size of the dog. And whatever amount of treats they received during training deducts twice as much of their daily ration of normal food, to make up for the added fat in the treats.
It is easier to train an animal that is a little bit hungry, not starved or they are thinking about nothing but food instead of learning.
With birds, I watch to see which item in their seed dish they eat first. Then I take this item out of their seed dish and use it for treats. For dogs, you normally need to use a treat type item over a food type item.
I'll be glad to talk a little bit more about clicker training if you are interested. It is really easy, once you learn how to use a clicker properly so it doesn't confuse your pet. Pets are taught one simple movement at a time, then rewarded. Once they have mastered that single movement, then you move onto the next small movement and they no longer get a treat for the first movement, they must progress to earn a treat. Never ever ever click a cricket unless you have a treat ready. When used as a training tool, that click means they earned a treat, regardless of why the cricket was clicked. They will lose all trust in the sound if it fails to be the sound of an upcoming reward.
Once again, it is best to learn to use a clicker by first using it with a human, and I will be glad to explain how and when to click later, if you want to know.
Re: Waiting In Line
my problem is we have 2 dogs and too many people. my dog, lucy is a golden doodle, the other occupant pooch is lily. lily is a chihuahua something something mix.
lucy is a nervous dog. she hides behind me when confronted.
lily is the opposite: a neurotic, bossy and braying wee bitch. she usually sets the pair off if - say - a leaf blows by and then the kids start yelling at them and the scene turns into some stupid sit com.
neither dog is stupid and would be easy to treat train, i think, IF i got the rest of the tribe to along with it. IF i got them to stay consistent. (maybe i ought to click train them first?
)so, for starters, should all be in on this, or just one person do the training?
Re: Waiting In Line
Technically, one person should become the Alpha Dog so to speak, the master they look up to. But everyone in the house should be involved with helping to train a pet. Each using the same verbal commands of course.
As far as using a clicker for training, that should be only one person handling the cricket, because they would be the only one who knows what segment of a trick they are on. We don't want to confuse the animal and get a link of the chain of commands out of order if you are working on complex tricks.
Pooches are a little more lenient than most other pets as far as getting your timing down exact. Which is why I normally say, start learning to use a clicker by working with a human who would know if the timing is off, and they can remember an entire sequence from the git go without having to start over each day with the same sequence and go only one step per day.
To give you a quick idea of how clicker training works, pick an object in the room, like a picture frame on an end table. Your goal is to have your human go and pick up that picture frame, but you cannot tell them what you want them to do. There should be no verbal communication between you and your friend, other than telling them a click meant they did it right, but this only to get started.
Perhaps you and your friend are sitting on the couch watching TV, with the end table across the room. If they happen to look in the direction of the picture frame, click. They won't know what they did when they heard the click, and neither will your pet. It may take several attempts before they realize it is the direction they turned their head that got you to click.
If they lean forward in the seat while looking in the right direction, click, but don't click anymore just for them looking in the right direction. Now it takes both looking in the right direction and leaning forward to earn a click and treat.
Next step is look in the right direction, lean forward, and prepare to stand up, to earn a click. Etc. until they finally are in a standing position. Then you would click if they step in the right direction.
This is why timing is so important. If they are turning and you click at the wrong time, they will be facing in the wrong direction. So you only click when a determined direction is presented. Once they reach the end table, it is like a repeat of the above, click if they look at the object. They won't know you want them to pick it up, so each movement of the hands toward that action earns a new click.
Every trick you teach works that way. I long series of small steps leading up to the desired action.
A bird climbing a ladder, picking up a ball and dropping it into a basketball hoop, can take fifteen or twenty small chain links before the chain is completed and they perform the entire routine.
With dogs, you can often have a starting point for a trick, which they will learn as the starting point by using a short verbal command which is not part of the regular commands. Because you never know where you will be when you want to show folks you have taught your dog a new trick, don't condition them to a specific spot in the house. Lead them somewhere and have them Sit, then when they are sitting, add the word Spot-A, or Spot-B, etc. The A or B lets them know the routine they will follow when you tell them to do it. Spot-B is associated with fetching a ball and dropping it in a Basket or box. Spot-T could be for them to toss it up to a higher basket, etc. Make the cue's easy for you to remember also.
Also with dogs, always associate, Good Boy, or Good Girl, with the proper completion of a trick when the clicker is no longer used. They learn fast, click means they did something right, and get a small reward, and they have to work harder each time to earn a treat. Once a trick mastered, no more clicks, but they get a verbal Good Boy or Good Girl and a larger treat. After all, they really worked through the chain of links to earn that better reward.
And don't forget, a little bit hungry! "Will work for food."
Hope I made that clearer than mud, hi hi...
Good luck!
As far as using a clicker for training, that should be only one person handling the cricket, because they would be the only one who knows what segment of a trick they are on. We don't want to confuse the animal and get a link of the chain of commands out of order if you are working on complex tricks.
Pooches are a little more lenient than most other pets as far as getting your timing down exact. Which is why I normally say, start learning to use a clicker by working with a human who would know if the timing is off, and they can remember an entire sequence from the git go without having to start over each day with the same sequence and go only one step per day.
To give you a quick idea of how clicker training works, pick an object in the room, like a picture frame on an end table. Your goal is to have your human go and pick up that picture frame, but you cannot tell them what you want them to do. There should be no verbal communication between you and your friend, other than telling them a click meant they did it right, but this only to get started.
Perhaps you and your friend are sitting on the couch watching TV, with the end table across the room. If they happen to look in the direction of the picture frame, click. They won't know what they did when they heard the click, and neither will your pet. It may take several attempts before they realize it is the direction they turned their head that got you to click.
If they lean forward in the seat while looking in the right direction, click, but don't click anymore just for them looking in the right direction. Now it takes both looking in the right direction and leaning forward to earn a click and treat.
Next step is look in the right direction, lean forward, and prepare to stand up, to earn a click. Etc. until they finally are in a standing position. Then you would click if they step in the right direction.
This is why timing is so important. If they are turning and you click at the wrong time, they will be facing in the wrong direction. So you only click when a determined direction is presented. Once they reach the end table, it is like a repeat of the above, click if they look at the object. They won't know you want them to pick it up, so each movement of the hands toward that action earns a new click.
Every trick you teach works that way. I long series of small steps leading up to the desired action.
A bird climbing a ladder, picking up a ball and dropping it into a basketball hoop, can take fifteen or twenty small chain links before the chain is completed and they perform the entire routine.
With dogs, you can often have a starting point for a trick, which they will learn as the starting point by using a short verbal command which is not part of the regular commands. Because you never know where you will be when you want to show folks you have taught your dog a new trick, don't condition them to a specific spot in the house. Lead them somewhere and have them Sit, then when they are sitting, add the word Spot-A, or Spot-B, etc. The A or B lets them know the routine they will follow when you tell them to do it. Spot-B is associated with fetching a ball and dropping it in a Basket or box. Spot-T could be for them to toss it up to a higher basket, etc. Make the cue's easy for you to remember also.
Also with dogs, always associate, Good Boy, or Good Girl, with the proper completion of a trick when the clicker is no longer used. They learn fast, click means they did something right, and get a small reward, and they have to work harder each time to earn a treat. Once a trick mastered, no more clicks, but they get a verbal Good Boy or Good Girl and a larger treat. After all, they really worked through the chain of links to earn that better reward.
And don't forget, a little bit hungry! "Will work for food."
Hope I made that clearer than mud, hi hi...
Good luck!
Re: Waiting In Line
i'll print it out and work on it soon as i get my ducks (kids) in a row!
Re: Waiting In Line
When I was training exotic birds, I amassed one heck of a lot of information, most of which was useless stuff, but there were a few excellent tid bits in the mess. I never had time to go through everything, and when the frau was doing some cleaning up of junk, she tossed all of my old unused junk papers in the trash to make room for more junk papers, hi hi...
I tend to keep way too much stuff I know I will never put to good use.
I tend to keep way too much stuff I know I will never put to good use.